DINING GUIDE
A selective guide to restaurants around the bay, encapsulated from previous reviews by TBI dining editor Julie W. Martin.
NORTH TAMPA
MICHAEL’S GRILL
Irish Chef Michael Reilly prepares authentic Italian and French cuisine in a pleasant neighborhood pub atmosphere where regulars act like good friends. Reilly’s eclectic menu of Wasabi-Crusted Tuna and pasta namesake Seafood Michael keep them coming back. 11720 N. Dale Mabry Hwy., 813-964-8334, michaelsgrill.com
TOASTED PHEASANT
North Tampa’s culinary scene has gone international with French trained, Lithuanian-born British chef Peter Leonavicius’ Toasted Pheasant. Classically trained, French standards like duck confit seem right at home, but with menus that change daily, more alternative fare like wild game tastings are making appearances as well. Though it is still hard to beat the namesake, toasted pheasant, a local foodie favorite. 14445 N. Dale Mabry Hwy., Tampa, 813-265-6700, toastedpheasant.com
VIZCAYA RESTAURANTE & TAPAS BAR
Chef and owner Felix Piedra offers more than 28 tapas and authentic Basque cuisine in this garden-bright eatery. Though not quite as extravagant as the dinner entrées, the noontime fare at Vizcaya is still worthy of gourmand consideration, and at a lesser price. 10905 N. Dale Mabry Hwy., 813-968-7400, vizcayarestaurante.com
BELLEAIR BLUFFS
LE BOUCHON BISTRO
A French bistro in the truest sense, its casual menu satisfies a range of appetites with a level of sophistication reserved for well-traveled palates. Pâtés, pizzas à la Provencal and delicate crêpes keep regulars coming back. 796 Indian Rocks Road, 727-585-9777, lebouchonbistro.com
MARLIN DARLIN’
Marlin Darlin captures all the ambiance of a cushy yacht, with the nautical cuisine to match. An abundance of fresh seafood catches, daily ceviche and boutique oysters combined with creative sides of fruit salsas, island rice and coconut spinach make a breezy tropical experience. If you’re lucky, you might be able to land the Hogfish Snapper, served whole and crisp with a light tempura-like batter. 2819 West Bay Drive, 727-584-1700, marlindarlin.net
PALM HARBOR
MYSTIC FISH
Owners Eugen Fuhrmann and Chef Doug Bebell are true shaman for fresh fish. But meat lovers won’t feel like a fish out of water when ordering entrées. Bebell wisely tempers his seafood selections with Australian Rack of Lamb, Pork Ossobucco, and the house favorite — a 16-ounce Kona and Spice Crusted Rib Eye. 3253 Tampa Road, 727-771-1800, 3bestchefs.com/mystic
ST. PETERSBURG
BELLA BRAVA
Bella Brava is all about new world Italian cuisine. With al fresco dining on two levels, it’s a great spot to soak in the subculture of the city’s emerging young and hip while enjoying one of the restaurant’s signature martinis. 515 Central Ave., 727-895-5515, bellabrava.net
CAFÉ ALMA
With fresh table flowers, crisp black-and-white linens and an attentive staff, this 160-seat hot spot greets customers with distinct Old World charm. While focusing on “heart healthy” ingredients from Greece, Italy and Morocco, Café Alma still offers ample opportunities to indulge in baskets of buttery, curried cranberry bread and aromatic homemade soups. 260 1st Ave. S., 727-502-5002, cafealma.com
M.J.’s MARTINI, JAZZ AND TAPAS BAR
A nice diversion from downtown bars and eateries, but in keeping with the same sophisticated urban scene, M.J.’s brings quality jazz entertainment to the table, along with a host of artfully elevated tapas-style bar food and a long list of intriguing cocktail choices and excellent wines. 445 99th Ave. N., 727-329-6600, mjsjazzlounge.com
PACIFIC WAVE
Far from the cookie-cutter menu of many Asian restaurants, this Zagat-rated eatery in downtown St. Petersburg creates gourmet dishes with a unique blend of fresh ingredients paired with innovative sauces. 211 2nd Street South, St. Petersburg, 727-822-5235, pacificwaverestaurant.com
PARKSHORE GRILL
The Parkshore Grill keeps a steady clientele of businessmen, local residents and the occasional out-of-towner who migrate towards Executive Chef Tyson Grant’s well-crafted menu of imaginative American cuisine. Ample variety and substance combined with heirloom vegetables and fresh herbs bestow power to every plate. Consider the outdoor patio for dreamy nighttime dining. 300 Beach Drive N.E., 727-896-3463, parkshoregrill.com
SAFETY HARBOR
GREEN SPRINGS BISTRO
This 1930s bungalow-turned-eatery is a charming spot to sample Chef Paul Kapsalis’ regional classics from Louisiana and the Carolinas, including the Sausage, Shrimp and Grits, and homemade Black and Blue Berry Cobbler. 156 4th Ave. N., 727-669-6762, greenspringsbistro.com
DUNEDIN
THE BLACK PEARL
The Black Pearl bills its fare as New American cuisine, though its service is steeped in the tradition of fine dining that flourished in the 1950s and ‘60s. Here, timeless culinary favorites such as escargot and duck liver pâté easily mingle with such new-age companions as butternut squash ravioli with sun-dried cranberry butter sauce. 315 Main Street, 727-734-3463, theblackpearlrestaurant.com
DOWNTOWN TAMPA
CAFÉ DUFRAIN
This small bistro, located on the metropolitan outpost of Harbour Island in Tampa, brings vibrancy to lunch and dinner standards in the form of robust New Mexican chilies, Asian spices and an abundance of Indian-influenced vanilla curry glazes. Its bright Mardi Gras motif and view of Tampa’s Seddon Channel make Café Dufrain a natural for scenic dining on the waterfront. 707 Harbour Post Drive, 813-275-9701, cafedufrain.com
FLY BAR & RESTAURANT
Fly’s menu offers a keen medley of small plates infused with imagination and worldly flair, in a hip, urban environment complete with a rooftop bar. A great addition to Tampa’s emerging downtown landscape. 1202 N. Franklin Street, 813-275-5000, flybarandrestaurant.com
MALIO’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE
Malio’s prime organic steaks are perfectly seared, then topped with a signature pat of butter and served with a lemon wedge. Equally impressive are the outside views of the Hillsborough River and inside glimpses of Tampa’s local dignitaries and celebrities. 400 N. Ashley Drive, 813-223-7746, maliosprime.com
SOUTH TAMPA
717 SOUTH
This dual-minded restaurant serves Italian and Pacific Rim dishes with equal flourish in a clubby art deco atmosphere. Think seafood manicotti and pupu platters for the best of both worlds. 717 South Howard Avenue, Tampa, 813-250-1661, 717south.com
BERN’S STEAK HOUSE
An unmistakable landmark for locals, and a beacon of gastronomy for celebrities, sport stars and governors, Bern’s continues its “old school” reputation for serving the best steak in America. But it seems the most innovative, epicurean sensations come via the “new school,” courtesy of Chefs du Cuisines Andy Minney and Habteab Hamde, who have made their definitive mark with emerging best sellers like the yellowtail snapper a la plancha. 1208 S. Howard Ave., 813-251-2421, bernssteakhouse.com
BYBLOS CAFÉ
A bronzed and yellow interior creates an aura of sublime Mediterranean pleasures, including savory Greek-influenced selections of marinated beef, chicken, lamb and seafood. Separate dining alcoves provide an opportunity for large private parties to comfortably sample and share up to 16 Mezahs — traditional Lebanese appetizers. 2832 S. MacDill Ave., 813-805-7977, bybloscafe.com
THE WINE EXCHANGE
This wine-store-turned-bar-turned-restaurant has great new digs in the center of Tampa’s Hyde Park Village. Always a favorite with locals, The Wine Exchange now has extensive kid and dog-friendly patio dining featuring an extensive wine list from boutique vineyards and signature menu items like the phyllo-wrapped baked brie with brown sugar and almonds, and the grape pecan chicken salad. 1609 Snow Ave., 813-254-9463, wineexchangetampa.com
WESTSHORE
BOIZÃO STEAKHOUSE
Portuguese for large buffalo or bull, Boizão is a first-class “churrasco” feast set in a twilight room of paneled wood, bamboo accents and white tablecloths. Its proposition of an all-you-can-eat dinner includes unlimited visits to the salad bar for fresh vegetables, aged cheeses and rustic breads, plus 14 cuts of meat, personally carved tableside by handsome Brazilian gauchos. 4606 Boy Scout Blvd., 813-286-7100, boizao.com
CAPITAL GRILLE
Polished woodwork and ornate portraiture whisper wealth and privilege — and the Capital Grille delivers service to match. Both lunch and dinner menus offer generous allowances to indulge in dishes typical to restaurants of this genre, including dry-aged steaks, veal and lamb chops, and lobster tails measured by the pound. International Plaza, 2223 N. WestShore Blvd., 813-830-9433, thecapitalgrille.com
PELAGIA TRATTORIA
Pelagia Trattoria swoons diners with its modern Italian cuisine under the guidance of Executive Chef Fabrizio Shcenardi, whose genuine accent is filled with passion for creating one of the area’s most coveted menus. Try the octopus cured with garlic and mint and the sautéed thin-sliced parmesan-crusted veal. Renaissance Tampa Hotel International Plaza, 4200 Jim Walter Blvd., 813-313-3235, pelagiatrattoria.com
YBOR CITY
BERNINI OF YBOR
Few restaurants epitomize the big-city experience as well as Bernini, where superb service and classic Italian cuisine are cranked out in an almost frenetic atmosphere. Try celebrity favorites: Tony’s Baby Calamari or the Pescatore Fra Diavolo. 1702 E. 7th Ave., 813-248-0099, berniniofybor.com
SEMINOLE HEIGHTS
BUNGALOW BISTRO
Bungalow Bistro’s cuisine is continental deluxe, with eclectic menu offerings ranging from American cheeseburgers and salmon piccatta to a savory chicken roulade stuffed with goat cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and spinach with a buerre blanc sauce. The Sunday brunch features delights like eggs Benedict, banana Foster pecan Belgian waffles, and lucky-you-live-in-the-South sausage gravy and biscuits. 5137 N. Florida Ave., 813-237-2000, bungalowbistrotampa.com
ST. PETE BEACH
DON CESAR’S MARITANA GRILLE
Cheese presentations have become a rarity in Florida, and the Maritana is one of the few restaurants offering some unique choices. For a totally indulgent finish (or beginning), give the Chef’s International Cheese Tasting a try. The Don CeSar Resort & Spa, 3400 Gulf Blvd., 727-360-1881, doncesar.com
FETISHES
Those familiar with Fetishes’ award-winning fare know to look beyond its storefront exterior and think fabulous food instead. Owner Bruce Caplan has created an intimate setting offering a well-crafted range of epicurean treats. A consecutive four-time recipient of Wine Spectator magazine’s Award of Excellence, the restaurant’s wine offerings are equally notable. 6690 Gulf Blvd., 727-363-3700, fetishesrestaurant.com
SNAPPER’S SEA GRILL
Savvy metro diners will appreciate the fusion-flair cuisine, while the most sentimental Florida visitor will be gratified with seemingly greaseless battered shrimp, oysters, haddock and clam strips for a meal reminiscent of the old Madeira Beach days. 5895 Gulf Blvd., 727-367-3350, snappersseagrill.com
CLEARWATER BEACH
KIKU JAPANESE RESTAURANT
Forget all-you-can eat buffets of pre-cooked tempura and teriyaki dishes. Chef Daniel Chong’s innovative offerings promise a refreshing mind-changing authenticity. Seasonal, market-priced omakase (chef’s choice) gives adventuresome gourmands captivating combinations of fresh sushi. 483 Mandalay Ave., 727-461-2633, clearwaterbeachkiku.com
RUSTY’S BISTRO
Much more than a respectable-only-on-vacation eatery, thanks in part to Executive Chef John Harris, who diligently works to create some of the most sophisticated eating in the Bay area. Harris also offers a nightly soufflé that’s worth the drive to the beach. 1160 Gulf Blvd., 727-593-6000 ext. 7001, sheratonsandkey.com/Rustys.php
CARETTA ON THE GULF
Paired with breathtaking coastal views, gives Clearwater Beach a fresh new taste on gourmet dining. As the Sandpearl Resort’s signature restaurant, Caretta’s offers an array of delectable goodies including the beach town favorite oysters, served three ways: standard raw, dynamite with baked spicy crab and salmon with kabayaki sauce, or cornmeal fried with barbeque sauce and Roquefort dressing. Caretta on the Gulf, Clearwater Beach (727-441-2425, sandpearl.com/caretta)
TIERRA VERDE
CRAZY CONCH CAFÉ
Chef and owner Michael Peel’s menu is dedicated to culinary influences found along the Gulf coast. Terra-cotta tile, white tablecloths, black chairs and a shiny copper-topped bar add polish to this nine-table eatery within a glimpse of Pass-a-Grille channel. 1110 Pinellas Bayway S., 727-865-0633, crazyconch.com
CLEARWATER
CAFÉ PONTE
Chef Chris Ponte’s Euro/Asian-influenced cuisine has captured the attention of gourmets and mesmerized food critics since its August 2002 opening. Sit back and watch efficient waiters deliver some of the Bay area’s most elegant entrées from the open kitchen. 13505 Icot Blvd., Suite 214, 727-538-5768, cafeponte.com
SAVANT FINE DINING
Its cubbyhole location off Drew Street and Highway 19 makes it a sure miss for casual passersby, but owner and Executive Chef David Miller likes it that way. With a seven-course fixed price menu and only one nightly dinner seating, those who stumble in looking for a slice of pizza from the past proprietor are in for a big surprise. 2551 Drew Street, 727-421-9975, savantfinedining.com
TÍO PEPE RESTAURANT
No doubt such famous diners as baseball great Ted Williams and Gen. Norman Schwarzkopf have noshed on Tío Pepe’s rustic European black bread, baked on the premises. The restaurant’s rich heritage and ties to the Iberian Peninsula extend to the wine cellar, where more than 800 bottles are stored. 2930 Gulf to Bay Blvd., 727-799-3082, tiopeperestaurant.com
GULFPORT
BACKFIN BLUE CAFÉ
If there were an award for best comfort food served in a time warp, Backfin Blue Café, in historic Gulfport, would receive highest honors. Despite its namesake, diners can expect gourmet meatloaf and hefty prime rib and still get their fill of sweet jumbo crab cakes. 2913 Beach Blvd. S., 727-343-2583, backfinbluecafe.com
LARGO
CAFÉ LARGO
Chef Dominique Christini has captured the hearts of area gourmands who know and appreciate fine French haute cuisine prepared the old-fashioned way — with all the attention to detail and technique the French have made their culinary trademark. 12551 Indian Rocks Road, 727-596-6282, cafelargorestaurant.com
